They’re BIGGER
They’re BETTER
There’s MORE INFO
The pictures are updated
They’re more sturdy

I LOVE ‘em!

You can buy a set at myFUNcamera.com (down there under the Zenfolio info on the left), or you can get a FREE one if you buy a raffle ticket for my son’s soccer team! HERE’S THE RAFFLE INFO!

The email that I got on Sunday was very similar to many of the emails I’ve gotten before: asking questions about beach photo sessions, equipment, business, clients, etc. I thought about my response for a VERY long time before typing it up & sending it.

My answers weren’t all butterflies sparkles & sunshine, which is why I thought so much about it before sending it. Anyone who knows me well will tell you: I’m honest. Sometimes brutally honest. I think it’s the best way to go. What you see is what you get with me, and if I give you advice, it’s my honest no-sunshine-up-your-booty attempt to help you improve. If you don’t like it, that’s fine. We’ll both move on.

I thought posting my response up here would give good insight into my beach sessions, and my business.

So, here I am, in all of my meanie glory:

Hi ********,
I apologize in advance, but I’m gonna go “Tuff Love” on you. Hopefully it will help you (and not hurt too much… I’m really sorry if it hurts!!)  Now that I’ve got you all scared… read my answers below…

Hi Carrie.

My name is spelled Carey. When you email someone asking for advice, figure out how his/her name is spelled. It will get you off on the right foot.

I am so sorry to bother you but your name is the first whom I thought of when I got a recent request for a session. You see…I’m a newbie photographer from *******.  We just moved from ******to ****** We’ve been here in ******** for about 3 months now and I am trying desperately to get my name out there and get my business up and off the ground. Well…long story short…I finally got my first booking here this coming Tuesday. The request is for a beach portrait session.

Awesome! give it time… best to build slowly than be a “flash in the pan”

Needless to say, I am a panic stricken mess. Beings that I am from ********, I have very little experience shooting on the beach for sunset sessions. Other than my own children, I’ve never shot in the sun or on the beach like that.

So you’ve never done a professional session on the beach? You need to take that out of your business marketing. The logo you attached at the bottom of this email says “BEACH, FAMILY, ENGAGEMENT….” The first word in your slogan is something you’ve never done professionally????  Not good.

I’m excited to have my first client here and am praying like mad that I don’t mess this session up.

Praying is great. I pray before every session of mine.
Good preparation, experience, excellent equipment, and confidence are just as important.

Here is where you come in…

I know how awesome you are about helping others with photography. I was wondering if you might have a second to send me some tips for shooting sunset portraits on the beach. I know to begin shooting about an hour before sundown but what in the world do I do in the meantime with all of that harsh light on the skin tones?

Starting an hour before sunset is too starting too late. It takes a while for the kids to “warm up” for the session, and the good light is already gone. The best light, typically, is 90-50 minutes before sunset. That can be changed by clouds, smog, crowds, and lots of other things beyond your control. Once you get close to sunset, the sun starts falling FAST, the light gets REALLY red/orange because it’s traveling through so much atmosphere (even worse if it’s smoggy), and the light gets dim. I highly recommend starting well before 60 minutes before sunset!

I had some questions and wondered if you could answer them and send me any advice you might have for a first timer.  I feel so under skilled for this assignment but have not told the client that. So…if you have the time in between now and Tuesday.  ….

Do you spot meter when shooting in the sun to avoid the shadows and if so…how?

I use evaluative (matrix) metering for images with sand & sky. I use center-weighted metering for closeups where the background doesn’t matter to me as much. I never use spot metering for outdoor sessions (that’s because I shoot in Av mode, and the shutter speed that the camera would choose via spot metering wouldn’t produce pleasing results for my clients).

Do you use a flash for fill light to avoid shadows or do you instead use a reflector?

Nope. See THIS post for a little bit of insight into my lack of “stuff”

Do you shoot in the shade until the sun begins going down or are you shooting on the beach in direct light for that whole hour before?

Full sun. I’m lucky if I find some shade, but that’s rare.

Do you shoot in manual or aperture priority for shoots with kids on the beach?

Av mode. I choose the aperture ## and let the camera choose the shutter speed. Works best for me. Many photographers shoot in manual, choosing the aperture & shutter speed themselves. That doesn’t work for me.

Whichever mode you shoot on, what do you typically keep you settings at?

The lowest I can use, except for group shots. For groups, I want to make sure everyone is in focus, and that won’t happen at f/2.8, so I dial in a higher number.

I have a 50mm 1.4, a 105mm macro, a 12-24mm wide angle, and a 70-300mm lens. Which would you use on this shoot & why?

“which would you use and why?”   That sounds like a high school essay question. heehee
You didn’t include the f/##s on all of those lenses, so it’s hard to say which would be best. I’d probably use the 50mm because I’m guessing that’s the highest-quality lens that you’ve got. Macro isn’t versatile enough for an entire session. 12-24 wide angle is very wide, and it probably doesn’t have a pro-level f/##. Most 70-300 lenses are plastic f/3.5-5.6, so I’m just guessing that you’ve got one like that.  It’s not a really great lens. It would be OK if you really knew what you’re doing on the beach, but since you’re already worried about handling the light & the environment, you’ll want to use the best lens you’ve got: the 50mm 1.4.

Should you have any other advice or suggestions, I’d greatly appreciate your input. Your images and your talents are amazing and I’ve always enjoyed your blog updates and your sites. You have ROCKIN’ abilities and are truly someone I look up to. Beings that you specialize in these type settings and because you are a skilled photographer who has always been there to help other newbies, I knew I had to ask you for help.

Sorry if I am too hard on you. But, I really think you should do more free or VERY low cost “portfolio building” beach sessions before you start marketing yourself as a professional beach photographer. It’s clear that you’re not confident yet, and that confidence will come with practice and experience. Taking your own kids out is great, but you already know that taking pictures of others is MUCH better for building experience & confidence.

Here’s the email:

Hey Carey!

… I have a quick question about the more costly lenses. When you get a higher quality lens (like your favorite 70-200mm), can you retain the 2.8 f-stop when you zoom? I have a cheap-o 70-200mm and when I zoom, my aperture narrows. Other than the amazing glass in the more costly lenses, do I get to zoom to 200mm and still shoot wide open at f 2.8?

Thanks!
Carol Anne

Here’s my answer:

Hi Carol Anne!

Great question!  When you buy a lens, it will say something like f/2.8 (like my favorite 70-200mm) or f/4-5.6 (like THIS one).

When a lens has ONE number after the “f/” that means you can use that setting no matter how wide or tight you zoom the lens.

If you see a lens that says something like “f/3.5-5.6″ with two numbers, that means you can use the lowest number (for faster shutter speeds, more light, and better background blur) only when you’re NOT ZOOMING the lens in tight.  Once you start zooming in, you can’t use that low number any more, and the lens will switch to a higher f/#.  When you zoom as much as possible, the lowest number you’ll be able to use will be that 2nd number on the lens.

Why??  Cuz it’s difficult to make a zoom lens that can maintain a wide aperture no matter how much or how little you zoom.  Better glass is needed.  Better mechanics and optics inside are needed.  They’re harder to make, and that means $$$, so those lenses are more expensive.

Rock on!

~Carey

This is a dude that asked my advice on a camera purchase (50D vs Rebel), and I told him to get the 50D because it would be more sturdy for him, wouldn’t feel like a plastic toy in his big man hands (like the Rebel would), and could grow with him as he gets more & more into photography.

Here’s his email:

Hey Carey,

I wanted to purchase my first prime lens and it only made sense to start with a 50mm. I was once again seeking your advice on which lens you prefer. I’ve read side by side reviews and image comparisons between the 1.4 and 1.8, but still am unsure (It drives my wife crazy that I’m so persnickety, but still have the hardest time choosing) as to which is the better choice for me (normally people say you only know whats right for you, but for now I think you know whats right for me lol).

With your previous help, I opted to go with 50D rather than the T1i. It’s the best purchasing decision I’ve made in a long time. Although you would think that it would be an easy decision for me to go with the more expensive, better built 1.4, I’m just not sold on it, although the bokeh is much cleaner to me. I guess the main reason being is that I have my eyes set on better glass down the road. I feel that the 1.8 might have the best bang for you buck out of any thing in the history of electronics, but I’m weary that it may not make it for more than a year or two after regular use.

Am I just thinking about it too much. Should I just spend the extra and get the 1.4? I would put myself in the category that likes the best, well in this case better, but I guess the price difference is so drastic that its making me well, a little hesitant.
Thanks again,
Rob

Here’s my response:

Hi Rob!

I’d say that unless you’re 1) using it professionally and/or 2) using it EVERY SINGLE DAY, the 1.4 is not worth the extra $$$.

I’m not a prime girl myself.  Have you tried prime lenses?  You may love it.  But you may hate it.

I feel hobbled with primes, but I have the 85mm 1.8, and have tried the 1.2L.

I can get by with the 85mm 1.8.  I really like the 1.8 bokeh, and that one is WAY WAY WAY CHEAPER than the 85mm 1.2L version. If I was a prime lovah and if I used it as my primary lens, I’d save up for the 85mm 1.2L, but it’s not worth the $$$ to me.

Now granted, the price difference for those two 85mm lens is a lot more drastic than it is for the 50mm lenses!  From a photographer’s point of view, the 50mm 1.4 isn’t all that much more expensive than the 50mm 1.8.  The price difference for the two 85mm lenses is $1,500 bucks vs just a few hundred between the two 50mm lenses.  But I still think the same principle applies:  if it’s going to be your primary every-day lens, go with the more expensive one.  If you just want to try out a 50mm prime in your lens bag, get the 50mm 1.8 and see how you like shooting with primes before you invest more money.
~Carey

You may be wondering why I didn’t recommend that he consider the 85mm lens that I have.

Here’s why:

I have 5D cameras. He has a 50D.  His 50D camera has a crop factor. The 85mm is already tighter than the 50mm, and on a camera with a crop factor, he’ll feel like he’s looking through a paper towel tube with the 85mm lens.  He’ll get much more out of the 50mm.

Peace out homee.

I used my Canon 580EX flash on Christmas Eve, and the results were great! I’ll post some pics when I’m done working on client images from my pre-Christmas Barefoot Memories sessions.

HERE’S THE EMAIL:

Hi Carey!! …
I’m just now really getting to know photography (got two little grandsons that I’m THOROUGHLY enjoying taking picture of!!) and I’ve used many of your tips. We took a fun trip to California back in June and went to Coronado Island, and I used your advice about the reflection photos on the beach. WOW! They turned out great!! I was so excited!! Some of my favorite shots!! Thanks for the tips!

Anyway, I have a question for you. I have a Canon Rebel and I’m looking for an external flash for it. What would you suggest I get? I trust your judgement.

I hope you and your family had a wonderful Christmas and I hope we get to see some of your pictures of the holidays!

Thanks again for all your help!

Janice

HERE’S MY ANSWER:

Hi Janice,
Thanks for your nice email!
I have a 580EX Speedlite, like the one HERE.
I really like it because I can swivel the head around and bounce the light off ceilings and walls. That softens the light and diminishes shadow a lot.
I recommend sticking with Canon flashes. I’ve tried off-brand flashes, but the “e-ttl” metering (electronic thru the lens) metering that talks from the camera to the flash doesn’t work as well when the camera & the flash are different brands.
There are less expensive Speedlites (like the 430 EX) but I think the 580 is great and worth the extra $$.
I hope that helps!
Carey

What I didn’t put in my email to Janice is that I also use the Stofen Omnibounce to soften the light a little more. It’s compact and not clunky. I’ve purchased bigger diffusers (like the “Fong” things & bigger softeners & diffusers) but the Stofen works really well and takes up very little room. Plus, the people I’m taking pictures of just see a flash with a little white cap on the end.

When I’m using a big diffuser, I usually get “WHAT THE HECK IS THAT!!???” questions out of the kids and adults, which really spoils my attempts at creating candid shots!

Xmas pics coming soon!
Happy Holidays!!

By the way.. here are those video tips Janice was talking about:

Part 1:

Part 2:

If you’ve got a nice camera but can’t seem to get off auto modes, this day is for you!

If your eyes cross when you try to look at all the numbers & settings on your camera & lens, this day is for you! (The numbers aren’t that scary, and I’m not saying that just because I’m a Math nerd, I promise!)

If you already know a lot about your camera (what ISO does, aperture, metering modes, shooting modes, benefits of different lenses, etc), this day will be boring for you. But, hey, if you want a refresher course and a fun couple of hours, sign up!

If you’ve gotten this far, you probably want some details, huh?
The workshop is Friday, October 23rd. We’ll meet in the park (details & directions will be mailed out to attendees) at 10am. You’ll also get a FREE Expo pass for PhotoPlus Expo, courtesy of Mpix, AND you’ll get a $25 Mpix gift certificate!
We’ll spend some time talking about equipment & shooting, then we’ll wander around using that new knowledge to create some great pictures!
If you want to bring your own kids as test subjects, AWESOME! You’ll just need to bring a helper to watch them while you’re learning.

After we’ve exhausted ourselves learning & shooting, we’ll find a nice spot for lunch. We can chitchat more and enjoy some great time with old & new friends.

The workshop is normally $250, but I’m keeping some spots open for early birds to get in for only $200!

Use this button to grab your spot:

You can also click HERE.

Click quick (say that five times fast!), these spots are limited! Oh and one other hint: coming with a friend is VERY fun, so try to find a friend who will come along with you! I’ve taught many of these workshops in San Diego, and the people who come with a shutterbug friend always seem to have the most fun. If you don’t have a buddy to come along, no worries! You’re sure to make some new friends that day!

If that link up there doesn’t work for you, that means the early bird slots have sold out.

If you’re yearning for more details, here’s a sneak peek at the subjects we’ll cover in detail:
cameras
sensor sizes
crop factors
prime lenses
zoom lenses
aperture
shutter speed
ISO
what your LCD will tell you
white balance
metering modes
drive modes
focus modes
REAL WORLD SHOOTING in different situations
shooting angles
ambient light
PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE
and LUNCH!

I know that list seems intimidating to people who just want to learn how to use their cameras to take better pictures of their kids, but I promise I’ll simplify it for you! Once you learn how different settings affect your pictures and which settings you should set first, it gets a lot easier, and that’s what I’m there for! Plus, you’ll get materials (and some myFUNcamera pocket guides!) to take home with you so you can review the info later.

It’s going to be a REALLY fun day!
See you in October!!

~Carey

Do you find yourself pulling out your camera to take some pictures, wanting to use some creativity, but you end up resorting to “AUTO” mode because you just don’t know where to start with settings?

The myFUNcamera pocket guides are for you! No long explanations, no theories or fractions, just quick help when you want some on-the-go advice about camera settings.

I made these pocket guides to help folks remember which settings to use in different situations.
There are tips for indoor, outdoor, and action.

If you don’t have any in your camera bag, think about getting some!
You can go to myFUNcamera.com and see them there on the left side.

Have fun shooting!!

~Carey

PS: If you’re a pro photographer, these are great for giving to folks who say “how do I use my SLR…?” I’ve heard many wedding photographers call these pocket guides their “Uncle Bob repellent”

These are ALWAYS a HUGE hit with moms & grandmas, especially if you’re going out for Mother’s Day brunch, and mom & grandma get to display their pictures on the table. The compliments & oohs & ahhhs from other people are awesome.

Here’s what you do:
Get a 4×6 or 5×7 wooden frame & remove the glass. Let the child decorate/paint/glitter the frame until it’s a gorgeous work of art that only a kid can create. Also pick up some fake flowers with long stems and cut them so that the flower & stem are about the height of the frame you bought. Remove any leaves from the stem, too.

Take a picture of your child’s hand with the fist pointing right at the camera like this:

The shallow DOF makes the picture look really 3D.
Focus on the fist and make sure you can see the kid’s face peeking out behind the fist.
Shoot in Av mode, and try some low Av numbers. If you go really low (a big wide aperture), that may give you TOO MUCH blur. You want to be able to see the expression on the kid’s face and make out WHO it is, so too much blur may be bad. Check the pic in the back of your camera and raise that Av number if the blur is too much.

Print out the pic to fit the frame you bought.

Use an Exacto knife to slice a slit at the top & bottom of the fist, then take the fake flower and slip the stem through the picture to make the fist “hold” the flower. Put the picture & flower in the frame. The flower stem sliding behind the fist makes the hand pop out a bit, making it look really 3D.

Here are some of the first few that I made years ago (still sitting on top of my office cabinets here by my computer):

Have FUN!
~Carey

I’m going to order a bunch of printing from Mpix. For ordering paper prints of the sepia photos, which Mpix paper would be best?

GREAT question!

First of all, for black & white or sepia images, I’d stay away from the “metallic” paper. Black & whites that are snappy infared or snazzy modern architecture look really cool on metallic, but b&w/sepia people portraits look better with a more satin, matte, or flat finish.

So, your choices are e-surface paper or the “true B&W” paper.

The thing you have to remember is that a sepia picture isn’t really black & white. There are some other colors in there (rust, brown, etc), so if you order a sepia picture on the true b&w paper, it’s going to lose that toning. It will look good, but it won’t look sepia any more.

So, if you want the sepia tones to remain, order e-surface.

Here’s what I’m talking about:
color image:

Here’s one with a subtle sepia-like tone:

If you order that pic on true b&w paper, it will look like this:

So, it just depends on what you want. If you want to keep those sepia tones, use e-surface.

You may also want to snazz it up your prints with lustre coating from Mpix!
Here’s what Lustre coating is:

Mpix offers Lustre Coating which provides a sheen that visibly enhances your prints and provides superior protection. The coating protects against fingerprints, UV rays, and typical over-spraying found in home/office environments. Lustre coating provides for a richer, enhanced sheen on prints of every size.

I’ve also heard that Mpix will be rolling out a really nice art paper with a soft velvety matte finish. They had samples at WPPI in Vegas this year, but I don’t know when they’re rolling that out. When I find out, I’ll let you know!!

~Carey

PS: Don’t forget to follow Mpix on Twitter to get the word on all the contests & coupons!! Following me may be good for a giggle or eye-rolling, too

If you have a camera with a “crop factor,” (40D, 50D, Rebel, 1D) you may not like it as much because it won’t be as versatile.

On my 5Ds, with full-frame sensors, I can get group shots and zoom in for tight detail shots, and I LOVE it!