Ask Carey: Camera settings for soccer games?
Yesterday I got this question:
Hi Carey! Can you give me some ideas for camera settings for shooting soccer games? I know you are a soccer expert! Thanks soooo much!!!
Great question!!
First some “don’t”s:
Don’t use the “green box” auto setting!
Don’t use the “running man” auto setting, either.
The camera chooses all your settings for you when you use those “auto” settings, and it may do a good job, but probably not. You want more control than that!
Here are my suggestions for getting great pictures at outdoor sporting events:
First, use a nice lens with a zoom of at least 200mm.
Browse through the LENS category to see my recommendations.
FIRST THING: ISO!!
Use an ISO of at least 200. For sports photography, you want to STOP that action and not have any motion blur (unless you’re going all artsy fartsy, but I’m not talking about that). A higher ISO will let you stop action and still have bright pictures. Shooting action at ISO 100 with a fast shutter speed will result in darker images if the sun is not SUPER BRIGHT.
You can even go up to ISO 400 or higher. Check your pictures in the back of your camera, and if they’re too dark, raise the ISO.
Which setting to use: Av or Tv????
I say Tv for action stuff
*disclaimer* I do not like shooting in M (Manual) mode.
It bugs me, I don’t like it, and even though I know how, it just doesn’t work for me.
If it works for you, cool. I’d prefer to let the camera do some of the thinking for me so I can focus more on composition & following the action on the field.
I used to think, “oh, I’ll shoot action in Av on the lowest Av number I can dial in, then the camera will choose the FASTEST shutter speed it can possibly muster at that Av#.” The only problem with that is that the camera is choosing a shutter speed for you, and it may choose something not quite as fast as you wanted. It may meter so that the whole picture will be nice and bright, but you could end up with “nice & bright” at the expense of a fast shutter… which will result in the dreaded MOTION BLUR.
So, I recommend shooting in Tv mode, where you choose the shutter speed. That way, you KNOW you’re going to get a fast shutter speed and stop that motion.
The higher the number, the faster the shutter. You need at LEAST 250 (1/250sec) to stop action. Higher is even better. You still have to try to hold your camera still, too! Remember: the faster the shutter, the LESS light will come in, so your pictures will get darker as you go higher with those Tv numbers!
When you look through your camera, you see something like this:
(unless you’re shooting a snow drift, you’ll see something other than plain boring white through your lens…duh)
The bottom shows you the shutter speed you chose and it shows the aperture the camera chose for you.
That little scale that goes from -2..-1..0..1..2 tells you if your camera thinks the image is too dark, too bright, or just right, depending on where the little arrow is under that scale. The Av number and the arrow under the scale may blink at you if it thinks the picture is going to be way too dark or too light.
If you’re shooting at 1/500 or faster, you might see a LOT of blinking at the -2 because the image may be too dark. You either need to slow down your shutter speed, or RAISE your ISO. Remember, if you raise your ISO, the picture will get brighter.
I like to shoot sports at ISO 200 or 400, on Tv mode with a shutter speed of 1/250 or faster. I let the camera choose an aperture for me, and I check that meter to make sure it’s not way down at the -2 blink blink blinking away. If it is, I raise my ISO. If the little arrow is blinking that the picture is too bright, I go even faster with my shutter speed (like 1/500 or faster) and I may lower my ISO, too.
Before the game starts, take some test shots, and check them in the back of the camera to see if they’re too dark or too bright, so you can get your camera settings dialed in before the action starts. Just remember, if a cloud goes over the sun, if the sun comes out, or if you venture to the other side of the field, the light may change drastically, so be sure to keep an eye out for blinkees in your viewfinder to be sure you’re not getting images that are too dark or too bright!!
I know this seems like a TON to remember, but it’s really not too bad:
1) Set your ISO
2) Use Tv mode (S on Nikon) and a shutter speed of 1/250 or faster
3) check the meter & the back of the camera to make sure you like what you see.
This is when having a POCKET GUIDE in your bag can really help!!
I made these pocket guides to help folks remember which settings to use in different situations.
There are tips for indoor, outdoor, and action.
If you don’t have any in your camera bag, think about getting some!
You can go to myFUNcamera.com and see them there on the left side.
Have fun shooting those games this weekend!!
~Carey
Carey you ROCK!!! That is great information!!! Very helpful!!!
I do have a couple additional questions, if that is ok? First..what would be the best metering mode to use in this situation and also how about your AF points? Do you hand hold shoot, use a tripod, or both for the events? I am shooting with a Canon 50D, and the lens I would be using a my Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS, and I do also have the 2x extender. I do know that I have the crop factor to deal with on my 50D, so should I still use the extender? You also spoke of using the Tv mode and letting the camera choose the aperture…do you have issues with getting several of the players in focus when you do it that way? Especially if the camera chooses a low aperture? Also if you have to raising your ISO in order to keep a fast shutter speed, will I have issues with my image not being sharp? I am sorry for all the questions…I have some childrens soccer games and a water ski event I will be shooting and need the advice 
I am soooo new to the action stuff…lol….ANY help is so appreciated! I know your are a busy person, so thank you in advance!
CAREY HERE…
Here are some answers for you:
Bring the extender and try it. You will probably feel “too close” for many shots, so I’m guessing you probably won’t like it, but it’s cool to be able to get close shots across the field.
I use center-weighted metering so that the camera meters & chooses an aperture that exposes the center of the image (or wherever my focus point is, if I’m not using the center).
ISO does not make your images less sharp. Getting focus right makes your images sharp. Raising the ISO will not affect the sharpness of your images.
I hand-hold my camera always. I’ve tried monopods & tripods — HATE them. I need them when I’m using a big bad lens like the 400mm or 800mm, but I don’t even own those lenses, so I just use a monopod when I rent them. I much prefer hand-holding the 70-200 with the 2x extender.
When shooting soccer events, I use the center AF (auto focus) point. Sometimes I’ll quickly switch to another one, but 90% of the time, I use the center one.
You also need to use AI Servo or AI Focus for your focusing mode if you’re taking pictures of running boys.
I only go for shots during games with one person in focus, so I don’t care about a shallow depth of field where another player may be out of focus.
I hope that helps!
Hey Carey,
About the ISO.. I guess I worded that wrong..I should have said graininess…not sharpness…As ISO gets higher that is what comes in the play, correct? If I am trying to not go any higher than 400, then it should not be a factor to worry about too much, right? Especially since they are playing during the day with really good sunlight.. 
Once again I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. I so am excited to go try this out!!! 
Yes that helps me SO MUCH!!!
What a coincidence! I am shooting at a soccer tournament over Memorial Day Weekend! Your advice will be soooo helpful because this will be my first sports photography shoot. Now I have a few weeks to practice with the tips you provided – THANKS!!!
Another question: Any tips on shooting people outside in bright sunlight? Being on the beach a lot, I can tell you’ve nailed this just by looking at your portfolio. The last time I shot people in sunlight, I ended up with a lot of shadows, especially on faces. I am shooting engagement pictures this weekend and there’s a possibility of lots of sunshine. I want creamy faces with no shadows!
Hi Carey,
Just go wind of your blog. Nice.
Just a side note on shooting sports and choosing Av or Tv. If somebody wants to shoot at say f/2.8 and wants to keep the Tv above say 1/750 sec they could set the camera to Auto ISO with a max ISO setting of the users choosing to reflect the minimum Tv. This is possible w/ my Nikon D300 so I’m not sure if it is possible on other makes or models. With todays current crop of DSLRs noise remains fairly acceptable out to about 1000-1600.